The tools you will need:

Seeds - if you are new to seed starting, begin with easy seeds to grow, like marigolds or tomatoes. Plan on putting 2 seeds in each pot to hedge your bet that 1 will germinate.

Seed starting soil - This is a soilless mix that is sterile. This prevents any fungal spores that could cause problems like dampening off.

Containers to plant the seeds in -  You can buy readymade containers for seedlings, or you can repurpose household items like egg cartons, toilet paper rolls, Dixie cups, or make your own using newspaper. Make sure that the container you are using has drainage.

Tray that will hold excess water when you’re watering - Some people like to water from below so you don’t damage young plants. 

Humidity Dome (highly recommended) - A humidity dome is a covering that goes over the tray to prevent moisture loss so you don’t have to water all the time. potentially damaging young seedlings. This lets the light in while holding in the heat. Some people use a plastic wrap. You can take the dome off after the seedlings have emerged.

Seed heat mat (highly recommended) -  This is a mat that goes under the tray which warms the soil. Most seeds will germinate quicker if the soil is warm. If the soil is too cool, it takes a lot longer to germinate, or they may rot before they come up. 

Labels -  No matter how hard you try, you will forget what you planted where. Use labels that fit under the humidity dome. I use 4-inch labels that I write on with a permanent marker.

Timer for the lights (optional, but recommended) 

Spray Bottle (optional, but recommended) - a spray bottle to spray seedlings. This will reduce seedling damage from watering from above.

Planting the seeds - 

• Pre-moisten your soil and fill your seed containers. The soil should be moist and not soggy. Lightly pack the soil in your containers.

• Plant your seeds. Check the seed packet for the depth the seeds should be planted. The smaller the seed, the shallower the seed needs to be planted (sometimes barely covered!) Most seeds ,if they have sterile, warm moist soil, will germinate in 7-14 days.   

If you are planting seeds that you have collected the previous season, a rule of thumb is plant the seeds the depth of 3x’s the seeds thickness. Small tiny seeds barely covered and larger seeds ½ to 1 inch below. You can use a pencil to make divots where you want the seed and then cover. 

• Don't forget to label your seeds!

• Cover with a humidity dome and place on a seed heat mat.

• Lighting.  Seedlings need a lot of light. By a window you will tell if the seedlings are getting enough light by seeing if they are leaning towards the light. If the seedlings don’t get enough light, they will be leggy and weak.

 If you are using lights, adjust them so they are a few inches above the seedlings. Mirrors or reflective material help get you more intense light. It is like putting a candle in front of a mirror results having 2 candles.

 I recommend using a timer to turn on and off - 16 hours of light and 8 hours of darkness to give them a rest.

• Fertilizing. Seeds have enough fertilizer stored to germinate and grow to their 2nd set of leaves. After the seedling gets to this point you will need to fertilize.

 A water soluble fertilizer with equal proportions like a 1-1-1 or 20-20-20 can be used at a half dose. If it calls for a table spoon per gallon of water, use ½ table spoon.

 As the plant grows, the seedling can be transplanted into a bigger container.

 All plants have a will to live!

Common problems  include not enough lighting, improper watering, and soil borne problems. Another problem is poor seed selection - hard to start seeds or seeds better suited for direct sowing. 

Setting up a fan will sturdy the plants and prevent diseases. The wind will keep the air circulating and will keep the plants good and healthy. Attach the fans to the timers when the lights come on, so will the fan. 

Before long, after they have grown and you have hardened them off, you will have plants ready to be placed outside.